Olaplex, a brand renowned for its bond-building hair products, has recently faced scrutiny over allegations that its formulas may be toxic to hair and potentially linked to health risks.
At the centre of this debate is the ingredient Lilial (butylphenyl methylpropional), a synthetic fragrance once included in Olaplex’s No. 3 Hair Perfector.
In 2022, the European Union banned Lilial due to concerns over its association with reproductive toxicity in animal studies. Although it had no proven link to hair damage, Olaplex opted to remove Lilial from its formulas to comply with new EU regulations, emphasising that the ingredient was non-essential and did not impact the product’s performance.
The brand’s reformulation without Lilial aimed to reassure consumers, yet questions continue regarding Olaplex products’ safety. Olaplex maintains that its products are safe, scientifically tested, and designed to restore hair health rather than harm it.
JuE Wong, Olaplex’s CEO, addressed these allegations, emphasising that the brand’s bond-building technology is engineered to repair damaged hair bonds, not cause breakage. Third-party testing further supports this claim; Olaplex products have passed industry-standard tests such as the Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT), which checks for potential irritation and sensitivity. These tests suggest that Olaplex products are unlikely to cause sensitivity or inflammation, even when applied to sensitive areas like the scalp.
Despite Olaplex’s defence, some users have reported hair thinning, breakage, and scalp irritation, sparking lawsuits and social media debates. The company counters that these issues could stem from various sources unrelated to Olaplex’s formulas, such as styling practices or individual sensitivities.
Dermatologists generally agree, noting that the causes of hair loss and breakage are multifactorial and often complex.
According to Dr. Susan Massick, a dermatologist at Ohio State University, hair irritation and loss can result from multiple factors, including prolonged exposure to potentially irritating ingredients, lifestyle factors, or even stress. Although Olaplex products passed controlled safety testing, Massick points out that adverse effects might still occur in some people over time.
The concerns about Lilial underscore the broader discussion around ingredient safety in cosmetics. In the U.S., cosmetic regulations differ from the EU’s, as the FDA does not require pre-market approval for cosmetic ingredients, including fragrances like Lilial.
This regulatory gap has led some experts to advocate for stricter oversight and increased transparency in ingredient disclosure, which could help consumers make more informed decisions. In response to this controversy, Olaplex has been more vocal in addressing ingredient safety, aiming to reassure consumers while aligning with global standards.
For users who are cautious but enjoy Olaplex products, experts recommend keeping an eye out for any signs of irritation or hair damage.
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Suzanne Friedler suggests that those who have not experienced adverse effects from Olaplex likely have no reason for concern. However, she advises consumers to consult a dermatologist if they notice new symptoms like scalp irritation, hair breakage, or increased shedding. Monitoring these signs and understanding product ingredients can help users manage their hair health more effectively.
Olaplex asserts that its products are safe and that the removal of Lilial reflects its commitment to meeting global safety standards rather than an admission of harm.
As consumer awareness of ingredient safety grows, brands like Olaplex may face increasing pressure to adopt stricter transparency and comply with evolving safety regulations.
